Monday the 5th of May 2003 – Day 76 to Tuesday the 6th of May 2003 – Day 77

Monday the 5th of May 2003 – Day 76

I got at 9.00am and went to the market for breakfast. Then went to the post pffice on the main street. Had a package ready of myCD-R photo disks and ATM statements. Had to bring them down stairs to get checked over by official and sealed. Cost was 35 B for registered post. I went on the net for an hour in a net cafe (3 B an hour) on San Pedro square. As promised I went into San Pedro prison at 11.00am. Bad timing. The coffin of the inmate who was killed (see earlier post) was in the courtyard. There is a big sign outside the prison door saying “NO TOURISTS” but I told the guard I was here to see my cousin “George Redcloud”. Pretty much disbelief on his face but he let me in. I told one of the prisoners to get George and I signed in using my passport. I met George at the mesh visitors area (and paid the messenger 2 B). I spoke to George for about 20 minutes as he was waiting for my Ok to go in. He spoke about his life there (5 years in out of a 8 years sentence) and his hope that he would be out before the end of the year because of good behavior. By this time relatives of the deceased had arrived and things were getting emotional. The coffin was brought out to the street but had to be brought back in again for a minutes silence. George said today was not a good day to visit and gave me the number of the prison. He said to ring back Wednesday to organize a visit Thursday.

I have decidded how to tell you to get into san Pedro Jail.

HOW TO GET INTO SAN PEDRO JAIL

They have goten strict in the last year and when I was waiting to get in, many tourists etc were turned away especially if they are a mixed groups of 3 or over (or mentioned the word TOUR). There is a big sign outside the gate saying NO TOURISTS. The best way is to ring the Public phone in the prison (i got this from a prisoner) 2324033.

In Spanish, ask the prisoner who answers for someone who speaks English or you can ask for Canadian George Redcloud. They are about 6 English speaking prisoners there (a German, a South African). They all do tours for money (helps pay the lawyers, bribes etc). Anyway who ever you get (it does not really matter) will put the paper work through.

Thurs and Sunday are visiting days but if the papework is good, you can go any morning (arrange a time with the prisoner). Never mention the word “tour” to anyone. This is a prison and you will enter as a sister, brother etc. I spent about 6 hours inside. They have a canteen etc. Dont bring valaubles etc.

Ask the prisoner how much you should bring. 50-80 Bolivars for the prisoner and maybe 15 for lunch. So its an experence, they are some bad people in there so mind yourslf. To summarise there are NO tours of the prison, It has to be done independently. You can go with one other person. Have about 3 B to pay a prisoner to go get your Sister/brother. Ask the English speaking guy whether he needs anything. Sometimes they may ask for pens or paper or a English Newspaper

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When I went outside I saw 5 girls sitting opposite the prison. I decided to let them know the story, and was surprised to find that they were all Irish (from Leitrim). Three sisters and two friends. They had worked in Australia for 5 months and were going to Rio. Hmm, I though it would be tought travelling together, but they seemed ready for the trials and tribulation of South American travel. There was no chance of them getting into the prison so they decided to go to the Coca Museum. As I had been there the day before (and enjoyed it), and I was heading to the Black Market, I showed them the way. They were going to the jungle the next day, and said to call in for breakfast if they had a chance.

I love visiting the Black Market. Did it again after the prison visit. From the central boulevard Plaza de Los Heroes upwards almost until El Alto there are literally hundreds of thousands of stalls. I saw on another website the following.

“A good illustration of the sheer number of sidewalk stalls is a recent protest by the stall owners that stopped all traffic on the central boulevard for several hours. It was estimated that 100,000 stall owners came out to state that they have difficulty earning a living wage – it was also estimated that not even half of the stall owners participated in the protest”.

The stalls tend to be loosely geographically organized by items sold. Remember the barber shops. This type of geographic concentration is fully to the advantage of the buyer since cost comparisons can be made and it is easy to move from one seller to another when the price is not right. You can buy everything here.

The Witches’ Market of La Paz is just off the black market. Some things you can find there include

– Llama fetus (dried): To protect the house. An estimated 99% of Bolivian families have a dried llama fetus thrown under the foundations of their house for luck.

– Llama fetus (burnt on a plate of sweets and herbs): To ensure luck for a new business venture.

– Dried frogs: For money. If you stick a cigarette in your frog’s mouth, your chances of striking it rich will increase.

– Bolivian armadillos: Kind of like a Chubb alarm. Stick one above the entrance to your house, and it will prevent thieves from entering

– Amulette d’amor (ceramic couple embracing): To get yourself hitched.

– Naked ceramic couples: To improve the sex life, rectify impotency, and increase fertility

After the black market (3.00pm) I went to see Gangs of New York. I was a bit disappointed. It wasn’t as compelling a story or film as I had thought. The cinema is beside the cemetery. the cost for a double bill (I did not wait for the Disney flick) was 10 B.

After the film, I walked to the University area (plaza del estudiante). This is a middle to upper class residential area. The people walking around here would not be out of place in New York, Dublin or Paris. Suits, well dressed youths, blond girls. You would never know you were in La Paz. Pizza joints, hot dogs and cafes. Nice area with lots of internet cafes. No poor people or people in traditional clothes to be seen.

I got back at round 8.00pm. Spoke to Rob about his day. Guy from reception comes up saying. “Guy from room 61, I need your passport NOW”. Wondering what the feck.. but hes having a joke. Two of the Irish girls are in reception and are wondering would I like to join them for dinner. Rob and I met them all including 4 french (well one French Canadian) lads. Had a terrible chicken and chips (only thing on the menu) and he all headed to the Pub. Had a great laugh and stayed there until about 4.00am. Rob, I, one of the girls from Leitrim and a Kiwi we met went to another bar and stayed until 7.00am. Note – she was catching a 22 hour bus journey at 11.00. Ouch. Walked back to the hostel and stayed in bed until noon.

Tuesday the 6th of May 2003 – Day 77

Stayed in bed as long as possible (noon) but alot of street noise. I had a shower and went walking. I had an early lunch and simply enjoyed the afternoon walking about. I really like this city. I got the wrong impression when I arrived on the Saturday night. Central and Zona Sur are quite on Weekend night. Come M Monday, everything had changed. The streets were full and buzzing from Morning to sunset. Stalls filled every street. There are armies of shoe shine boys who are at every corner (1 B for a great shine). They are always busy but most wear balavlavas. I don’t know whether this has to do with car pollution or if they do not want to be recognized by there peers. Anyway, its always a bit disconcerting, but they are always busy. There are also an army of youth wearing florescent jackets with mobiles chained to themselves, offering air time or phone time to passer boys. With no public bus service, its left up to an army of mini and micro vans to get people to where they want to go. There are thousands of these vehicles zooming around with their destination plastered on their wind shields. They run fixed routes. Their is always a lad shouting out the window the destinations and prices. I spent the day watching the going on at the San Francisco plaza. The square around 5.00pm is full of charlatans selling magical portions to improve body and soul. They are usually dozens of men surrounding these guys. I spent quite a while at the square and surrounding stands. The street food is fantastic. All sorts of breads and pasties with delicious fillings like hot cheese, chicken and beef. Lovely cakes and donuts (all home made). All between 1b and 1.50B.

At 7.00pm I went to the cinema on the main street to see X-Men 2. The cost was 22 B and I also sway the matrix trailer. Looks good and I am looking forward to seeing it. The movie itself was OK. It only started at 8.00 after all the commercials and trailers. You can actually pick what seat you want when buying the ticket. The film was technically good, and must be great for those who were into the comic. It had some great moments and I cant fault it, but I won{t see it again. Read a review here (positive review) and here (negative review).

Because of the very late night last night, I went to bed pretty early with a bottle of gypsy cola (5 b for a 2 litre). God, I love this bolivian Cola. There must be real Coca in it. Im addicted!!