Sunday the 4th of May 2003 – Day 75
As most agencies were closed (Sunday) I decided to visit San Pedro Jail. Sunday and Thursday are visitor days.
See the following two great articles on the San Pedro prison. One is quite old and one is quite new .
I had convinced myself that it would be quite safe… Its in the Lonely Planet and Hector from the TG4 Travel was there. Otherwise, surely tourists would not go. This prison is unique of its kind: there are no bars or even cells… the prisoners walk freely amongst the tourists… the thieves, the rapists, and the murderers.
I got breakfast at the market at 8.30am. two pasties with cheese hot) and excellent only 1.50 B. I got to the prison at 9.00am. Sunday and Thursday are visitor days. No cameras allowed (and would you want to). When I arrived at the entrance, I was surprised. all the wife’s and loved ones were waiting with food to see their loved ones (1,500 inmates)., but not one tourist. I waited 10 minutes but no tourists. I said to hell to it and went to queue. The women says to skip the queue, which I did. My bags were searched and I walking to the entrance. Hundreds of prisoners were waiting at the main gate waiting for their visitors who are left straight in after getting their hand stamped. Alot of the prisoners started shouting at me. I didn’t know where to look. Not all of it was nice. Suddenly, some one day said “you speak English”. I said yes, and he said he would get George. The names of imates who speak Englisha nd give tours are reguarly on the net. All the time, the guards were there looking at me and the governor was there. I was moved around a bit (5-10 minutes) and George arrived. He said to stay cool and would check the situation. after a chat between the guards and George, he said the gringo tours had been called off. An inmate had been stabbed last night and had died four hours ago (5 am). He was a notorious and important prisoner and the governor of the prison was angry. he was expecting camera crews any minute. George asked me for my full name and said he would organize a meeting tomorrow (if I said I was his relative ) hmm, I gave him my name name and he gave me his details. He was a scary looking fecker. I gave the messenger guy 4 B. So, I am Georges relative and I am visting him tomorrow. Feck.
Throughout this, a multitude of people were crowding around the iron gates shouting, screaming, trying to catch the attention of relatives, trying to catch my attention.. Everything is available in San Pedro prison, if you have the money: guns, knives, alcohol, female and male prostitutes, and of course any type of drug you care for.
The prison is the cheapest place in La Paz to buy drugs (an ounce of cocaine goes for 20 Bolivians, less than $3) promoting a bustling trade among visiting locals.
Out into the open again. I was glad to leave but I promised to be back at 11.00am tomorrow morning.
I went back to the hostel to get my camera. Rob was still in bed so I went to the “museum de Coca“. It was 7B in and it was great. It went through the traditions of coca, processing, harvesting, magical properties and culture. Two quick facts. While Coca is produced here, the US (5 % of the worlds populations) consumes 55% of the worlds cocaine. Bolivia has no interest in this trade in either trafficking or consuming. Chemicals from US factors help create cocaine.
Secondly, Coca-cola introduced in 1886 as “a valuable brain-tonic and cure for all nervous afflictions”. Coca-cola was promoted as a temperance drink “offering the virtues of coca without the vices of alcohol”. The new beverage was invigorating and popular. Until 1903, a typical serving contained around 60mg of cocaine. Sold today, it still contains an extract of coca-leaves. The Coca-Cola Company imports 208 tons from South America each year. Nowadays the leaves are used only for flavouring since the drug has been removed.
Coca consumption was originally the prerogative of the Inca elite. Today, most of the natives indulge as well. Coca is also consumed as the highly esteemed coca de maté. Drinking coca-tea tends to soothe the stomach; so it’s good for digestive problems. Coca de maté is less likely to induce jitteriness than coffee. It is also rather more effective as a mood-brightener.It promotes clarity of mind and a positive mood. Traditionally, the leaves have been chewed for social, mystical, medicinal and religious purposes. Coca has even been used to provide a measure of time and distance. Native travellers sometimes described a journey in terms of the number of mouthfuls of coca typically chewed in making the trip. This was a “cocada” – the time or distance and man could walk before a coca pellet was exhausted. More information from here .
After that, I went to the black market for about two hours and had lunch. I then walked to the cemetry. There was all husle and bussle outside- people selling flowers, food – basically a massive market outide the gates. A hatchback turned up… the relatives were awiting amongst the candle floss sellers and the coffin appeared. Pretty surreal. Inside, it is very tranquil. It reminded me of the temples in Bangkok. Crazy outside in the streets, calmness inside. Anyway, beacuse of the bad ground, coffins are placed within structures (concrete). Hard to expalin. Buit instead of a gravestone you have a plaque and the coffin is behind it. A window (with a lock) covers this plaque and there is room to put flowers within this. Of all the thousands of plaques, I never saw one without flowers . simply incredible. The plaques could be one hundred across and 20 up (I Saw structures with 3 stories with balconies and stairs). I may change this text to more fully explain. The pictures may help. I then walked to a elevated area in the middle of the city bowl, where there is a park and children’s playground. Because it was Sunday, it was packed (1 b entrance). I left around 5.30pm and went back to base via San Pedro prison. Went to a net cafe for a few hours.

La Paz – Bolovia
Taken on the 4th of May 2003
La Paz – Bolovia – American Coke Head at the Coca Museum. Basically the argument was while Coca is produced here, the US (5 % of the worlds populations) consumes 55% of the worlds cocaine. Bolivia has no interest in this trade in either trafficking or consuming. Chemicals from US factors help create cocaine. Why blame Bolivians?
Click on the picture to see it in its original size

La Paz – Bolivia
Taken on the 4th of May 2003
La Paz – Bolivia – Overlooking part of the city. The city is situated in a chasm below a plateau at an altitude of 3600m alongside the La Paz river. Therefore houses are built upwards up the inside of the bowl.
Click on the picture to see it in its original size