Friday the 4th of April 2003 – Day 45 to Monday the 7th of April 2003 – Day 48

Friday the 4th of April 2003 – Day 45

The bus journey was long. As I did not get much sleep that night, the 5.00am start was too early. The bus has to take a very round about route because of the geography of the area. It goes through the other big city in the province called Rio Grande. Nice town but sea and wind swept. We changed bus there to a more comfortable bus. We got served coffee and a crossisant on board. Same type of views with no trees, greenery, houses or traffic. We got to the border and passed through with no problems from the officials. We had to get a ferry from Porvenir to Punta Arenas which took 40 minutes. Most on board were truck drivers. The ferry was included in the price. BTW, the company was Tecni- Austral based in Roca 157 (Ushuaia). They have offices in Rio Grande, Rio Gallegos and Punta Arenas aswell. They go to Arenas 3 times a week. No private cars on board the boat. I met Alex and his girlfriend whom I had met on the plane to ushuaia.

Map of the area. Also shows the historical fort of Fuerte Bulnes (04-04-2003)

Punta Arenas is the main city in the Strait of Magellan and the capital of the Región de Magallanes y la Antártica Chilena, Chile. It is often considered the southernmost city in the world, although there are towns further south on Tierra del Fuego as well as semi-permanent residents in Antarctica.

Punta Arenas is located at 53° 10′ S 70° 56′ W, in the Brunswick Peninsula.

The Punta Arenas was considered one of the most important Chilean harbours before the construction of the Panama Canal, because it was used by ships to prepare for the difficult passage around Cape Horn. Today it is mostly used by tourism cruises and scientific expeditions. The city is often a jumping-off point for Antarctic expenditions.

Punta Arenas is the biggest city in the Chilean Patagonian Region. In 2000, it had a population of 120,000.

Getting off the bus, we were met by hostel pimps. I ignored them and started walking down the street. Basically, I liked the look of a hostel I passed on the street called and went in. They had private rooms for 8,000 CP (10 EURO) including cable TV and breakfast. It was quiet and decided to take it as I was knackered from the bus. Still trying to get to terms with the currency. I walked town to the tourist office in the main square, got some information, and went to the one ATM that accepted VISA. Got the Chilean Peso with no problems. Went to a supermarket and then to a restaurant called El Mercado (mejicana 617) recommended by Lonely Planet. Very nice eel soup (with tons of eel) and lomo solo with chips. Included beer, it came to 8,000 CP (10 EURO) which was very reasonable. Watched the The Perfect Storm on TV. Very appropriate as there is a massive fishing industry in this region. The boats are everywhere. The town is also a big army and navy centre. Army cadets and naval officers are all over the place. There are a few academies here. Seems, the bases were set up to guarantee Chilean control of the area (France and Argentina were eyeing the place up)

Saturday the 5th of April 2003 – Day 46

A pretty good nights sleep. Breakfast is served between 7.00am and 10.00am. Only about half a dozen people in the hostel. Good up at 8.15am and had breakfast (coffee, bread, eggs), and decided to find a tour I could jump on. Many of the travel agencies were closed, but found Tourismo Pali Aike to be open. They had a tour to Fuerte Bulnes.

We also visited P. Hambre which is just before Fuerte Bulnes. The site was founded as Rey Felipe by Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa in 1584, and settled by 103 colonists who were tragically stranded after tremendous storms prevented their ships from returning to shore. The name Puerto Hambre (Port Hunger) was given by the British captain Thomas Cavendish who found only one survivor when he docked here in 1587 (the rest had died of starvation and exposure). In 1993, the Chilean ambassador José Miguel Barros found the plan for Rey Felipe in the library of the Institute of France in Paris, and it is the oldest known document of urban history in Chile. The only thing you’ll find here is a plaque and the remains of a chapel.

There were only four people on the tour. A Chilean couple who have lived in the USA for the past 30 years (and who make miniature western stage coaches) and a Chilean history nut. Arrived back at 1.15. Didn’t do much for the rest of the day. Checked the net (about 700 Cp an hour). Best place is Calafate on Magannes beside the navimag office. Went to the bank and walked around. Booked a bus ticket for tomorrow Sunday to Punta Natales for 2,500 CP (3 EURO). Leaves at 18.30 and should take 3 hours. Had a meal of lomo sandwich and chips. Including two pints (draught), the bill came to 4,2000 CP (5.20 EURO). Early enough night. Watched The Straight Story on TV.

Sunday the 6th of April 2003 – Day 47

Very little to do today as my bus was leaving at 18.30. The town was deserted, so stayed in the hostel until noon. Went to a Pub to watch the Formula ! race which was quite good and have some lunch. Spend some time on the net and went to the Parcho Bus office. Price was 2,500 for a single ticket. The journey was 3.5 hours, and arrived around 9.40pm. Nothing to see on the road. The town was very quiet when I arrived. It was cold and starting to rain. Nicos on Rameriz 669 is recommended in Lonely Planet. Walking there in the dark (very few street lights) in about 10 minutes. It was a Bed and Breakfast (or a Hostelriesas they are called here) rather than a hostel. I was showed the private room, costing 4,000 and took it. The landlady showed me round. As it was getting late, I went to bed. Didn’t seem to any other person staying here.

Map of the area. (06-04-2003)

Monday the 7th of April 2003 – Day 48

Got up at 8.30am, and had free breakfast at the B&B. Just the usual rolls, black coffee. Puero Natales has a population of 16,000, is a delightful tourist town on the shores of a sound (Seno Ultima Esperanza) that winds into the mountains. It is the southern terminus for the huge Navimag car ferry that comes from Puerto Montt. Very quiet around town. People usually stay for 2 or 3 days and head to the park for camping and trekking.

The summer season is December to February when temperatures are a pleasant 15° to 20°C, but the mountains have extremely variable weather often with high winds. They have a website here .

Map of the town. Also shows historical museum location (07-04-2003)

I went to the historical town museum in the town for 500 CP. Not much to see. Focus on the town history, early settlers, meat processing and such. Nice history of the native people who were here before the Europeans.

I went to the NAVIMAG office to book my boat ticket to Puerto Montt. From Puerto Natales in southern Chile there are no roads northward, unless you care to detour via Argentina, so you travel by ferry to Puerto Montt. You can see the route I am going to make below.

You can check out there website here or check out this VERY funny travelogue about the trip here . Check it out.

Have decided not to to do the “W” or the circuit of the park. This would involve between 3-5 days trekking and staying in a tent. For one I do not have the following equipment.

Waterproof Jacket and pants (gore-tex), Theral, synthetic, undershirts, Fleece Jacket, Wind Stopper Gear, Hat with ear cover

Thermal Gloves and socks, Fleece scarf, Sleeping Bag -10 oc, compression stuff bag 90 litres, Dayback, flashlight, roll mat, tent and stove. I would have to hire them all in town. The weather is simply too unpredictable as well……Finally, you aso have to carry your normal everyday holiday packpack.