March 31st 2003 (Day 41) to April 3rd 2003 (Day 44)

Wednesday the 2nd of April 2003 – Day 43

Got up at 8.30am and made breakfast at the hostel. Awaited the arrival of the tour bus. It arrived on time at 9.30am. Bernado from Paris was already in the bus with 3 guides. He had paid a Buenos Aires travel agent 120 US (348p) againt my 120P. He was pissed. We stopped for two girls from Buenos Aires. I had met them in El Calafate a few days earlier so that was fine. We were also driving a Swiss girls called Natalie to her self catering house. I had met her in Punta Madryn. She was going to live on her own in the mountains for 5 days to relax, as she had been travelling for 5 months. All the way up in the mountains on her own .. good idea.. only cost her 200 P. Anyway the four tourists and the 3 guides headed off in the mini van to … the van was pulling 4 canoes and 7 Mountains bikes.

Took us 30 minutes to get to the first point of call. Mountain bikes were off loaded and brakes, wheels, air checked. This took about 20 minutes. We all set off down the mountain towards the lake called Lago Fagnano. Alot of it was downhill and was was on dirt road. It was fun while a bit scary. A few close calls, but made it. The two girls could hardly ride a bike, never mind mountain bike… so they arrived about 20 minutes after we the rest of the group. They decided to wait as we continued and circled around. The lake is 100 miles long and up to 10 miles long in places. When we got back we had a trek above the lakes and returned around 1.30pm for a BBQ, which was great. One of the guides had the fire going, wine ready. The meal was great.

We packed up, drove for 30 minutes to another lake called Lago Escondido. Unpacked 2 person canoes and set off. As both the French guy and I had kayaked before, we headed off. One guide went with each of the two girls (who hardly put paddle to water the whole time). We were on the water for about 2 hours over 10km. It was fun, but the canoe is harder to control than a kayak in turning, but we did a good job and was chance of overturning. The water was crystal clear, and yu could see 2 m down to the bottom, no problem. We finished at 6.00pm and went to have a pint.

As on the journey at the start to the lakes, we all shared matte. The girls had brought the flash, straw etc.

Yerba Matte (Yerba Mate) is consumed mainly in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay and southern Brazil. It is brewed from the dried leaves and stemlets of the perennial tree Ilex paraguarensis. A tea native to South America and has been used for centuries as a health tonic and beverage. Containing 196 active compounds, nutrients, and amino acids, Yerba matte is touted as the new healthy alternative to coffee. Additionally, it is believed to act on sensory organs to assist dieters in reducing food cravings.

The name “Mate” derives from the quichua word “mat?” that names the gourd (Lagenaria vulgaris) that is traditionally used to drink the infusion. Quite often mate is bitter and sharp but this one is smooth and delicious. It contains twice as much caffeine as tea and is refreshing, invigorating, and rich in vitamin C.

Yerba Matte (31-03-2003) ‘ What I’m drinking these days´

Thursday the 3rd of April 2003 – Day 44

Got up at 9.30am. Had coffee (all coffee, tea, hot chocolate etc) is free at the hostel, and brought my dirty clothes to a laundry. Price was 12 P for a big bag. Went to Tolkar on Rocha Street to buy my ticket for Punto Arenas. The price was 75 P. Expensive, but the only other way is to get on a yacht to Punto Williams (price approx. 50-80 US) and then a scheduled ferry from there to P. Arenas for 120 US. Anyway the bus leaves at 6.00am tomorrow morning and arrives in P. Arenas at 5.00pm on Friday.

Make sure to visit the tourist office on St. Martin (674), as it has a world of information of getting to Ushuaia and away from it. It was has details on buses to the National Park, the lakes, the train station etc. Their email is muniush@speedy.com.ar and their web address is here. They also have information points at the airport and the docks. Anyway they pointed me to a company doing trips to the Martial Glacier. i went there, but they no longer do the trip. Two other people also wanted to go there. You can walk there (7km) but the three of us decided to get a taxi. The average price is between 5 and 6 P. We got there at 11.00am and paid 6 P. (only 2 p each). the tourist buses are usually between 4 and 8 single. Once there you can walk to the start point (30 minutes uphill) or get a ski chair lit. It costs 7P and takes 13 minutes. I took it to save my legs and got to the start point. There is a place to say up there for free if you bring a sleeping bag. Anyway you have two choices there. A trip to Black Mountain and/or the Martial Glacier. As you can see from the pictures, the glacier is nothing like the Moreno Glacier from previous posts. I walked the black Canon first. Two hours up, one hour down. Steep in places and ground is loose stone and gravel, so we careful in the last 300 yards. Time for hands and feet. Some nice views of the valley beyond the range. Harder coming down, but skirted over to the path for the Glacier. The glacier is located at a 1,000m. An easy 40 minutes up and 30 minutes down. Better ground here with footholds. Some great views of the town and Beagle Channel. The ski chair lift is free on the way down so why walk. Plenty of tourist buses waiting for independents. Cost was 3.50P back into town. Nice driver asking plenty of questions. Back into town for 4.00pm. Went to an Internet cafe on St. Martin. The only place in town where net access was 1.50 per hour. Most other places are between 2 and 3 P per hour for access.

I met Justin – the Malaysian from El Chatlen. He had a fever, but he, myself and an American Jew, called Shane who has just arrived decided to get dinner. Went to a grill, where they provided us with much lamb, beef and sausage. Expensive at 27P each, but had a few beers with that. Headed back to the hostel to see the La Boca VS Coca Cola from Chile Liberador Cup Game. Ended with a 2-2 draw. Met 3 American hippies (the real thing) from Seattle and Nebraska who just wanted to know where in the place they could find some weed. Funny guys though.

I was warned about Justins snoring in Chatlen and how never to share a room with the guy. Sorry Justin.. but the stories are true. Decided to chance it. Bad mistake as he was incredibly loud. …the loudest snoring I had ever heard. None of the two Americans in the room could sleep. I got very little sleep and Justin was also talking in his sleep due to the fever. I got up at 4.45am and made some coffee. I went and got the bus to Punta Arenas in Chile at 5.30 am in the morning..very cold.. and off we went. Lovely 12 hour bus journey.