Monday, January 12th, 2004 – Day 328 to Thursday, January 15th, 2004 – Day 331

Monday, January 12th, 2004 – Day 328

I had set my alarm for 8.00am. It takes between 5-7 hours to get to Mengla near the Laos border. I already have my VISA. When I woke at 8.00am after a great nights sleep, I could hardly move I was so tired. I slept until 10.30am. I still could have gone as I wont be crossing the border until the day after I get there but I decided to see this town and enjoy the sun. Its the first time in over a month I have been able to walk outside in a t-shirt. I decided to have a little R&R by eating and watching TV all day. I headed down to the no.2 bus station and purchased my ticket to Mengla for 39 Yuan.

I walked to a local noodle place for breakfast and went onto he NET for two hours writing up the blog. I then had a nice lunch. No western cafe this time. It was a simple fried tomatoes and eggs, with a separate basin of rice (enough for six bowls), It came to five Yuan (.50 cent).

I do like I always do in China with restaurants. First of all I peek in and see what type of restaurant it is. It could be a noodle place, a dumplings place, a fish pace etc. They don’t have any menus so I walk in casual like saying hello. I then go and examine there fridge and veg which is normally in the restaurant proper. I simply pick out what I want by pointing and hand movements. It never fails to work. I ask to pay at the end but never show notes until they mention the price. No need. There is no point just going in and sitting down and saying C.H..I..C..K…E…N, please. Its gets you no where. You also need to learn hand gestures for counting numbers and saying thank you. You might think finger counting is global but is not. Check out this great website about Chinese gestures. Its excellent.

China is one of the largest countries in the world, the birth place of ancient culture and civilization. In general, one may say that by the influence of Confucius’ philosophical thinking, the Chinese have become more reserved or at least the gestures expressing emotions are comparatively less expressive. As the verbal language, the nonverbal register of gestures lasts for a long time, but in different historic times, there are different gestures. From a historical point of view we will distinguish between dead and contemporary gestures. This gesture categories are metaphorical because there may be archic gestures which are still used somewhere in China, but in general we will try to pick up only gestures which are out of use today. The metaphors refer to common idea of ‘dead metaphors’, since the gestures are to a great extend symbolic expressions of meaning often in combination with iconic mode of representation. In this way we are putting forward the idea of analysing gestures as metaphors. The problem with the term “dead gesture” in realtion to “dead metphor” is that dead metaphors are very much in use although they are not conceptualized as such by the speakers but what we call “dead gestures” are not used anymore, they are archaic, as there as archaic words and expressions

As mentioned above, today was a day of rest. Its a nice town and fine in the sun. Its the first time I have seen Chinese girls wear skirts. Not bad either. Interesting New Zealand Newspaper article about the effect of the Lord of the Rings films on the country.

interesting article here about consumer living. It seems China, with roughly four times the U.S. population, will soon overtake the United States in the size of its consumer class. The United States currently has about 243 million people–or about 85 percent of its total population–who fall into the consumer class. In China alone, 240 million people have joined the ranks of the “consumer class,” accounting for about five percent of the estimated 1.7 billion people worldwide who have adopted the diets, transportation systems, and lifestyles pioneered in the U.S. and quickly taken up by other industrialized nations during the last century.

These are the two most important Chinese characters you will ever need to learn. The character on the left is for “man” the character on the right is for “woman” and it’s all you will see on many a toilet facility in China.

I did little tonight. Enjoying the warm air and relaxed place in this town.

Tuesday, January 13th, 2004 – Day 329

I was up at 8.00am and had breakfast in the noodle shop with my bags. My bus was at 9.00am. It says in the Lonely Planet that the journey would take between five and seven hours. I was at the station early and got a front row seat. It was cramped though as it was only a 15 seat bus. The journey took only four hours. I was there for 1.00pm. If I knew it was so quick I would have gone earlier and gone straight for Laos.

I did not stay. I walked to the South East station about 15 minutes away and bought aticket for Mohan on the boarder for 19 Yuan. It left at 1.30pm. I did not get a chance to eat. It was a straight forward journey and I was there for 3.30pm. The border was still open and I could have crossed but the guide and it many have a point in saying little accommodation or transport links existed on the other side.

I decided to stay tonight and make an effort to get to Luang Pabang from the the border town of Boten (Laos side) tomorrow morning.

It was easy to find a nice room as it was very quite. I got a double room – ensuite for 30 Yuan (3 Euro). It was very quite around town with no trade between the two countries. I saw a hive of activity between China and Burma and Vietnam borders but nothing here.

Wednesday, January 14th, 2004 – Day 330

I was up at 8.00am after a good nights sleep but with I walked to the makeshift Chinese office they said come back at 9.00am. Laos is one hour ahead and there would be no point in opening before then. Like the town, they are building a brand new entry/exit post.

I should mention now that even though I changed my watch, I was persuaded to change it back again by the clocks in the Laos Office. For the next two days, I was one hour out and meant I went to bed early and got up early for 2 days.

When I crossed, there are pick ups to the Laos post for 3 Yuan which is 3km away on a bumpy road. Don’t even think about walking. They were quite nice at the Laos post but asked for my application for the VISA.

When I got my VISA in Kumning they asked me to fill in two application forms. They then gave one back to me. It was stamped or anything. I kept it – lucky for me. They never explained that you need this second copy for the border. Well,, anyway, as per standard, they only give you a 15 day stamp.

From there I walked a few hundred yards to the town of Boten. Not really a town. Its just a bad road, full of dust with a dozen small bamboo or wooden restaurants.

I changed twenty Dollars at a restaurant as there were no exchange facilities. I was lax about finding the correct exchange rate. I had checked it on the Web and it said 8,000 Kip to the Dollar. When the lady at the restaurant asked me how much I wanted, I put 80,000 Kip on her calculator. When she didn’t argue or counter offer, I knew I was either getting ripped off or getting counter feit notes.

There was no bus station. Just one bus at the side of the road. It was 9.30am and nd it did not leave until 11.20am (10.20am local). Nobody or no thing was coming over the border. It was surreal, it was so quite. One of two people every 15 minutes. Whets going on! It was 18,000 Kip to Muang Xai. I did not know the exact price, but it seemed the same as the other people were been charged. I thought the bus would never leave. As least the Kip notes were real.

Click on the picture to see it in its original size

Laos (15-01-2004)

It took only three hours to get there. I arrived. At 2.20, we arrived at the bus station.

I headed straight to the office and found to my relief that a bus would be going to Luang Prabang. This was great as I thought it would be a longer day. I had expected to have had to get one bus to Pak Monk and change to Laung Prabang. The cost was 27,000 Kip (2.70 US) and again it was a mini bus. It did not leave as had been the case this morning until it was full. It took five hours to get to Luang Prabng.

It was a good journey for many reasons. And very different from China.

in the four hours to Muang Xai, I saw only half a dozen vehicles on the road. Quite unbelievable.
The scenery was fantastic.
Its very rural. We passed no towns, just dozens of villages. Houses are simple bamboo, wreath, thatch houses many with no electricity, built on stilts.

It’s a town that wakes early each day when, beginning ever so faintly, the bells, gongs, and drums of local temples crescendo around 4:30am to send Luang Prabang’s estimated 1,000 resident monks and novices on their morning begging rounds. Making a circuit around the small peninsula formed by the Nam Khan and Mehkong, the crisp column of barefoot, orange-robed figures collect rice for their one daily meal. Visitors can even take part and do their good karmic deed for the day by handing handfuls of rice to each monk as they pass — a unique way to connect in a city that is alive with Buddhist culture and history. The colonial legacy still thrives and the torch of French culture and custom is borne by Luang Prabang’s architecture and cuisine. Even the most brief visit to this magically tranquil town is memorable.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, Luang Prabang is named after the golden statue that’s kept here, the Prabang (the town’s name means “great holy image”). With a long history as a center for the study of Buddhism, Luang Prabang was the first capital of Laos and has mercifully remained relatively untouched by war or even by the ravages of time; this means that many of the 33 temples are original, and the town’s charm arises from the ancient and authentic.

It was about 8.30pm (really 7.30pm) we we reached town or more exact the Northern bus station which is about 4km north of town. Passengers took a shared Jumbo for 5,000 Kip to the Post Office in town. I had no idea where I was but I was shocked to see so many tourists. a couple directed me to an alley where there were half a dozen guesthouses.

i checked out a very clean place where I got a double bed for 4 US per night. it was spotless.

Afterwards, I walked to the night market where I got a nice meal for 5000 Kip. there were foreign tourists every where. i mean hundreds. after 6/7 weeks without seeing more than 2/3 at any one time it was hard to get used to. As well as that, the restaurants all had English menus. Everything was so easya nd a little expensive compared to China. in China, beer at a restaurant can ost as little a .25 cent, its .50 cent here in a shot. Noodle Soup can cost about .20 cent in China. Its .60 cent here. It ads up.

By the way, the exchage rate is about 10,000 Kip to the Dollar, so the lady at the border scored 20,000 Kip (2 US) off me. Ah well, my fault. Fair play to her.

Thursday, January 15th, 2004 – Day 331

I was up at 9.00am (really it was 8.00am local) and I wondered why it was so quite and everyone was having brekfast. i thought it was the relaxed way of life in Laos. I walked to various VAT’s (temples)a nd there are amny. Some of the major ones, I visited include.

Mount Phu Si (Phousi)

There is a 8000 Kip charge to et to the summit.

Rising from the center of town, Phu Si has temples scattered on all sides of its slopes and a panoramic view of the entire town from its top. That Chomsi Stupa, built in 1804, is its crowning glory. Taking the path to the northeast, you will pass Wat Tham Phousi, which has a large-bellied Buddha, Kaccayana. Wat Phra Bat Nua, farther down, has a yard-long footprint of the Buddha. Be prepared for the 355 steps to get there. Try to make the hike, which will take about 2 hours with sightseeing, in the early morning or late afternoon, to escape the sun’s burning rays.

Click on the picture to see it in its original size

Luang Prabang – View from Mount Phu Si (16-01-2004)

Click on the picture to see it in its original size

Luang Prabang – View from Mount Phu Si (16-01-2004)

Wat Wisunalat/Visounarath

Wisunalat is known for its absolutely huge golden Buddha in the sim, the largest in town at easily 6.1m (20 ft.) tall. The wat was constructed in 1512 and held the famous Pra Bang Buddha from 1513 to 1894. On the grounds facing the sim is the famous That Makmo, or watermelon stupa, a survivor since 1504. Wat Aham is a few steps away from the Wisunalat sim.

Wat Xieng Thong

Xieng Thong is the premier wat of Luang Prabang. Built in 1560 by King Say Setthathirat, it is situated at the tip of a peninsula jutting out into the Mekong. Xieng Thong survived numerous invading armies intact, making its facade one of the oldest in the city. One of the outstanding characteristics of the complex is the several glass mosaics. Note the “tree of life” on the side of the sim. Facing the courtyard from the sim’s steps, the building on the right contains the funeral chariot of King Sisavang Vong with its seven-headed naga (snake) decor. The chariot was carved by venerated Lao sculptor Thid Tun. There are also some artifacts inside, including ancient marionettes. Facing the sim, the building on the left, dubbed the “red chapel,” has a rare statue of a reclining Buddha that dates back to the temple’s construction. Its exterior is adorned with fun mosaics depicting a popular folk tale.

Click on the picture to see it in its original size

Luang Prabang – Vat Xieng Thong (16-01-2004)

Click on the picture to see it in its original size

Luang Prabang – Vat Xieng Thong (16-01-2004)

I went to bed for an hour at 1.00pm. I am so unused to this heat and its really the first time for me in a T-shirt for a long time. I had a nice casual time but didnt know whether I would leave tomorrow or not. I had seen most of the major sites. Yeah, there are monks all over te place and most western tourists go a bit stor crazy at the sight of monks with safron coloured robes. They go camera snap crazy. these monks are mostly kids studying to be monks or here a a monk for a short time. they are ordinary kids but tourists treat them with kid gloves, bowing and open mouth wonderment.