Monday, June 9th, 2003 – Day 111
CHICLAYO is 770km (477 miles) N of Lima; 200km (124 miles) N of Trujillo; 235km (146 miles) NW of Cajamarca. Though it’s Peru’s fourth-largest city, with a population of just under half a million, Chiclayo would be just another busy commercial town, generating little notice among travelers were it not for the city’s strong associations with Peru’s ancient cultures. The primary draw is Chiclayo’s proximity to the archaeological sites Sip?n and T?cume, two of the most important related to the Moche and Lambayeque cultures, and the Museo Brüning, which houses one of the country’s most remarkable finds of the past several decades: the tomb of the Lord of Sip?n.
Most of the online guides say Chiclayo is a sprawling, bustling place; the city itself holds little interest for most visitors but I like it. After the rich-poor dynamics of Lima, its nice to be in a warm agreeable, down-to-earth place. Back to wearing a T-shirt after the cold of LIma. Its 25 oc here today
Took a taxi (2 Soles) to Transportes Chiclayo to get a bus ticket north for tomorrow night at 9.00pm. It was only 20 Soles (hmm, very cheap). I don’t expect the same level of service in that bus journey as I got in last nights. I walked from there to my chosen hostel called Santa Rosa but the price was 60 Soles. Decided to go next door and book a room in Hotel America (Av. Luis Gonz?lez 943) for 40 Soles.
From Frommers:
“On a busy commercial street not far from the Mercado Modelo, this dimly lit modern hotel with dark furnishings–chic, one supposes for northern Peru–is a slightly better option than the Gran Hotel Santa Rosa next door. It has some very odd, quirky touches, such as leopard-print headboards and large paintings of women in motorcycle helmets, which might give you the idea that it’s something other than a standard hotel. Other than the peculiar decorating choices, though, rooms are rather plain”.(09-06-2003)
Slept until 10.30am and decided to spend the day in town and visit the ruins tomorrow. By the way found a good article on Memem (Argentina) at this site.
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Chiclayo – Peru – The Plaza and Cathedral (09-06-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Chiclayo – Peru – Mercado Modelo – Sleeping on the Job “The fascinating Mercado Modelo, 5 blocks north of the Parque Principal, is one of Peru’s most raucous open street markets. Open daily from dawn to dusk, it carries virtually everything under the sun, but it’s famed for the section of small stalls crammed with the elixirs and potions of shamans and faith healers. The so-called mercadillo de brujas (witches’ little market), near Calle Arica, is redolent with exotic spices and drying herbs, wild with visual overload: hanging shells, small altarpieces and bottles filled with hooves and claws, snakeskins, miniature desiccated crocs, claws, skunks, and fish eggs. Echoing throughout are the distinctive come-ons of vendors. The city of stalls is about as close as you’ll get to India or Morocco in Peru, but it’s nonetheless a primer on the country’s extensive informal economy. You’ll find luggage, natural Viagra substitutes, baskets, guitars, hats, calf brains, children’s clothes, vats of peanut butter, stuffed animals, shops of canned goods that look like someone’s pantry, machetes, and butcher knives. There are dozens of beauty salons under wooden ceilings, and shoe and electronics repair headquarters.”
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Chiclayo – Peru – Mercado Modelo (09-06-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Chiclayo – Peru – Mercado Modelo – Rabbits, Pigeons and guinea Pigs for sale for eating. Guinea pig is called “Cuy” in Peru and it is a speciality of the highland regions of the Andes. Cuy costs about the same as the other main courses (about £2.50/$4.50). See this article explaining how Peru is trying to increase household production of said animals for food. (09-06-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Chiclayo – Peru – Mercado Modelo – Witches stall. They have stuff for everything from attracting the opposite sex to penile dysfunction. (09-06-2003)