Wednesday, January 21st, 2004 – Day 337
I was up at 6.20am to catch a pick up to Siem Reap. I had no idea what time if they left town (if they existed). i read one report of a backpacker having to pay 35 US for a car. At 7.00am (don’t bother getting up before then), i found a pick up truck. I suggested 8,000 Riel (2 US) for the trip in the truck rear which he readily agreed to.
The next one hour and a half was a pain. He kept driving up and down the one street looking for cargo and passengers and we only left at 8.20am for the journey which took 4.5 hours. Passengers can pay 4 US if they want an indoor passenger seat or 8 US for a double passenger seat along the driver. By the time we left there were 17 of us in the back of the pick up truck.
It was fine for the first 1/3 as I could sit on the side with my legs in. It was bumpy and dusty and the first hour, the roads were in a very bad state. There were military personnel everywhere looking for mines. Others were cutting down and burning vegetation like yesterday. Surveyors were also out so it makes me think they will be upgrading this road. Hen Sen, the Prime Minister has identified Pol Pots cremation site as a tourist attractions, but its going to take a lot of improvements to get tourists up there with the roads, accommodation and land mines.
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Anlong Veng to Siem reap (21-01-2004)
Next we stopped for 4 bags of rice which took up the centre of the pick up truck and minutes later we picked up three raged looking Cambodian Soldiers. The majority of soldiers in this area (the last Khmer Rouge Stronghold and last to give up) are all ex-KR. when 20 people I was forced to sit on the edge with my legs dangling towards the road above the back wheels. Every time we swerved left at a bend or to avoid a pot hole, I was nearly thrown off the vehicle. I was holding on with both hands as my bum slid either in or out depending on what way the driver swerved. It was hard and one of the soldiers kept on trying to talk to me. He had pretty good English and wanted to speak of jobs etc. He was earning 20 US a month as a Soldier. he was alarmed that the average wage in the West was about 2000 US a month. He shared this fact with the rest of our motley bunch. By the end of out trip we were all gets on well in this shared experience. Once we got close to Siem Reap and the famous temples, a tarred and paved road appeared.
We arrived in Siem Reap at about 1.00pm and I took a moto to Smileys Guesthouse. again my bags ere covered in red dust. I stayed in Smileys (renovated) Guest House last time I was here and found it to be very satisfactory. An ensuite room (cold water, fan) is just 5 US. They have good facilities, a restaurant etc and its a quite area of town off a street. It does attract some prostitutes at night though.
I walked back down town. I don’t really like Siem Reap as a town. Its full of package tourists from Bangkok as well as western orientated backpacker bars and restaurants. its hard to find the spots where locals eat. There are some nice outdoor stalls with seats near Smileys where you can get a great meal for 3000 Riel and some great fruit drinks for 1500 Riel.
I did little the rest of the day. I was planning to take a bus to Phnom Penh tomorrow. Lots of fireworks tonight to celebrate Chinese New Year. it was very impressive and great to watch.
News from the Web:
- It seems a top Cambodian Garment Union Leader Shot Dead earlier today. He was an opposition activist and prominent leader of a garment workers’ union on and is the latest of a string of high-profile killings that have boosted Cambodia’s reputation for political violence. He was shot three times as he read a newspaper at a roadside stall near a Buddhist pagoda in central Phnom Penh.
- China Hopes Year of Monkey Is Healthy One
- Falun Gong Founder Says Gov’t Envious
- Bird flu fears hit Thai exports
Thursday, January 22nd, 2004 – Day 338
I was up at 6.30am. There are 3 main buses to Phnom Penh. The first in Nairn/Smileys where I am staying. the bus is a heap of crap and doesn’t make for a good journey. The second buses come from the Capitol GH group. They are fine. The third group, GST has the best buses (comfortable air-con). The price has risen from 4 US to 5 US because of the New Yew Year. I arrived at the GST station at 7.00am to find the bus was out of service. An excuse I think. I walked to the Capitol Guest House bus stop where they had two buses going at 7.20am. I purchased a ticket. I was lucky as both buses were full for the journey and the majority was Cambodians. They were mainly visited family for the New Year I suppose. it is a journey I have taken before and its fine. A 7.5 hour journey isn’t so bad now that I am so used to such long trips. We stopped twice for breaks and food.
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Road to Phnom Penh – Badlands (22-01-2004)
We arrived in Phnom Penh at 3.30pm. I took a 1500 Riel moto my old Hotel called the Tonle Sap near the water front. its 10 US a night for air-con, cable TV and hot water. You can get places for 2 US a night but felt like relative comfort. My bum was still hurting me as it a tough place to heal in this counties humidly.
I went on a NET cafe to place camera pictures on CD and update nearly 3 weeks of blog. it took close to 4 hours. I returned to the hotel to watch the Blues Brothers 2000 (crap) and Chris Rock live.
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Phnom Penh central market (22-01-2004)
I had two beers at midnight in the bar beside the hotel called the Rose bar. Lots of pretty girls here.
It should be noted that the vast majority of businesses were closed in Phnom Penh for Chinese New Year. I am surprised that have such a grip on the economy. I suppose the locals fancy a day of as well. The only places that are open are barber shops (for the special occasion) and restaurants (which are packed tonight).
- 2003: a year in review. This guy has taken the year in review from every source available and breaks them into categories like Film of the Year, Music of the Year etc). impressive.
- Thailand confirms human bird flu in a worrying development there.