Monday, September 15th, 2003 – Day 209
I was up at six. No chance to have breakfast which starts at seven. I headed 1km down the main road to catch the number seven beano to the local bus station called Sasak Perot. It took about 15 minutes for one to come and another 15 to get there. It cost 2,000 IR (0.21Euro). Next I had to catch a bus to Licin.
Banyuwangi – Licin: 15 km by bus
I had to wait one FULL hour before it was full and allowed go. I like the bus service here. They go everywhere but I hate waiting. It was a beano type mini bus. I took nearly an hour because the bus was in shit shape and could not climb hills. We also stopped and started collecting and letting off people. It was a nice journey scenery wise when many kids in full Muslim dress waving at a foreigner in these parts (we are called Bule). We were out in the sticks (country) here.
We got to Licin but it was nothing but a crossroads. It had one school,and a mosque and a few shops. I asked around for a bus to Paltuding but no one knew. I had a choice of heading home, waiting for a maybe bus or hiring a moto taxi. I checked with the moto guys. They started at 60,000 Ir but I got one at 40,000 IR (4.35 Euro). He would drive me there, wait and drive me back here. I do not know if a bus service is available.
Licin – Paltuding: 18 km by motor bike
It was a hard road all of it up hill. The most 1/3 were coffee and mango plantations. The last 2/3 were dense rain forest. The road was just big enough for motorbikes and was more like a pathway. It became unpaved a few times. I had to get off the bike twice to allow the driver get ahead as the road was so steep. I doubt there is a bus service but you never know. I wonder why, as there were no houses.
Paltuding – Ijen Crater: 3 km on foot
Anyway we arrived, and I had to pay a 15,000 IR (1.60 Euro) entrance fee and sign a visitors book. It was 3km to the crater and the guardian told me it would take between 3 to 4 hours. I doubted him as I headed off.
There is a path all the way up (unpaved) and its bloody steep. It was hard going in the heat. I passed guys coming down with their 70 kilo loads in there baskets. Many were barefoot and looked worse for wear. I passed maybe 20 of these guys coming down. I took photos of many. They all asked for cigarettes in return. I should have brought a few packs but I did not know. I gave them 1000 IR (0.11 cent) instead,. They wee happy enough with that. Some asked for food or drink. About 1/2 way up, I came to the weigh station. Each man has to weight his baskets here and get a receipt.
I traveled on until I got to the crater rim. Sulfur fumes were over powering and you could not see 2 foot in front of you. Then every 10 minutes or so a gust of wind would blow it all away and you would get a great view of the crater lake.
Ijen has erupted six times since 1796, most recently in 1993. Most of the eruptions were phreatic. The eruptions have been small to moderate (VEI=1-2). In 1817, the crater lake collapsed, producing mudflows that destroyed three villages and 90 houses. The number of deaths is unknown. In late June of 1997, the color of the crater lake changed and seismicity and activity at the fumaroles increased but Ijen did not erupt.Starting 30 January to 5 February, an increase in seismic activity was recorded. Shallow volcanic earthquakes, several small explosion events, 6 tectonic events, and 2 tremor earthquakes were noted. Ijen is at Alert Level 2.
More information can be found here , and here .
Anyway I moved around the side of the rim. I was warned not to on by a worker but others said go ahead. I moved ahead slowly and got some good views of the lake. It was tuqqoise blue and very beautiful, although you would die immedialely if you fell in.
I met a worker who said he would bring me down to the lake and to where the workers got the sulphur. This was done in sign language as he had no English. He would have done it for 5000 IR but I decided to be over generous to this hard working man and promised 10,000 IR (1.10 Euro). I could have gone down by myself or followed another worker but as the sulphur was so strong and so overpowering I felt better going with some one.
You would take a few steps in clear weather when suddenly you would get devoured my a sulphur mist. Then you can not see one foot in front of you and your eyes start watering. It was worse than been teargassed in Cusco, yeah, twice. The sulphur gets into your eyes, mouth, nose lungs. Its all over your skin and body. I was glad to get down and see the workers collect the sulphur in there basket.
Sulfur gas is condensed in the crater by pipes and then mined. It very colourful with the red and yellow sulphur and the blue lake. Still there is no vegetation and everything is dead within the crater and the rim. I am glad I got a guide because I spent most of the time rubbing my eyes and coughing. It was basic chemistry;water in contact with sulphur dioxide makes sulphuric acid;simple, and painful too, if the moisture happened to be in your lungs, eyes and throat.
I just looked at his scandals the whole time and followed them. It was about 15 minutes down, 15 minutes there and 15 minutes back up. Half way up and down wee the worst as the fumes were bad there.
I thanked him and headed back at a steady pace. It was nearly three hours since I started. The best time is to get there between 6.00am an noon as they tend to finish around 2.00pm. The pipes directing the steam create enought sold Sulphur for about 2 loads per worker. Once gone they must wait until the next day. At the bottom, about 20 workers were on the ground resting and sleeping. I did try to lift a 70 kilo load and could not. They are hardy but with this stuff entering your lungs every day, they do not have a long life span. It also criples them.
My driver was there and we headed back. It was a total change. Instead of heat we drove through freezing fog and mist. It was the rain forest. It felt like Zero and I shivered on the bike. We could only see yards in front of us. This lasted most of the journey and I was happy to get to Licin. I did not expect the quick change of weather. Once back in Licin, it was warm again.
Here is an excellent article about the Java’s Sulphur Miners of Kawah Ijen . It has a nice story and cool pictures. I must check mine tonight. One note must be repeated: you need to get there early as the condensed steam produces enough sulphur for about 2 loads for every man. Once this is gone, their day is over until the next. I got there a bit late as many were just coming down. I had been in a 3rd Country mine before. It was Potosi in Bolivia.
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Ijen – Java – Indonesia – Mining (15-09-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Ijen – Java – Indonesia – Mining (15-09-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Ijen – Java – Indonesia – Mining (15-09-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Ijen – Java – Indonesia – Mining (15-09-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Ijen – Java – Indonesia – Mining (15-09-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Ijen – Java – Indonesia – Mining (15-09-2003)
I got back from Licin easily although schools were out and many of them climbed to the top of the bus for room. Again many questions and stares for the only foreigner. I got the same number seven beano back into town. It was 3.30am and there was no point in heading out of town now. It was a fine palce anyway with good restaurants, Net access, Banks and friendly people. I went on the NET for an hour. My skin and clothes small of sulphur.
I am sick of these HELLO People. I had to give two grown men high fives tonight. Still i am some great Sate Kambing tonight for 7000 IR including ice tea.
A guy mentioned my site on Irish Property News. He said according to Spike Milligan speaking on the Late Late Show a little before he died. He dropped this little gem: One thing you’ll never regret or say when you reach old age is: ‘I wish I had never taken that round the world trip’.