Tuesday, July 15th, 2003 – Day 147
We arrived back in town at 9.00am and I went to bed until midday. The processions of dancers started at 1.00am and continued all day. It was colorful but you get tired as the dance routines are very long. They have along of meaning to the locals (but not us). There was a alot of drinking doing on and the crowds were getting bigger and bigger (with most camping). I went back to the hostel for a while who were hosting drinks for one of the groups. I headed back into town and pet the two Peruvians to watch the fireworks and the serious boozing to go along. I was ready to join them after. The other tourists I had been with before at Tres Cruces had headed back to Cusco at 1.00pm.
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
)
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
)
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
)
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
)
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
)
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Paucartambo – Peru – Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen (15-07-2003)
The crowds were very tick. I noticed a guy in traditional dress beside me who was shielding himself behind me when the guys with fireworks came close. I felt uncomfortable with the crowds but was enjoying the festival. I felt a hand in my pocket and before I knew it the guy in the red poncho (to hide the stuff he stole) was gone. It was only 5 seconds but with the crowds and it was dark, it was done and I could not see hime (I had not even touched a beer at this stage). The two Peruvians I was with checked out about 20 pubs but with no luck. They borough me to the police station to make a report but they could do little with a crowd of 100,000 people. As I only had 12 Soles to my name I decided to head back to Cusco that night. There were no NET or phone connections here to cancel the VISA etc. There was only one bus at 3.00am. The two Peruvians who were pissed off with my robbery were heading back to do the Inca Trail. I went back to the hostel to sleep for a few hours. I was disappointed and felt violated. Five months here without problem and 15 days to go and I get robbed. What could I do, I have met loads of people who have robbed of worse (tickets, passport’s etc but it does not make it any better. With the party in full swing it was impossible to sleep. I met the two guys at 2.50am and we found out that the driver was drunk and there was no bus service until morning. All available buses were going to Tres Cruces and they could not understand why anybody would be leaving town during the festival. There were 3 others passengers disappointed.
“Most visitors who venture to very remote Paucartambo (and there aren’t many of them) do so for the annual Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen, one of Peru’s most outrageously celebrated festivals (it lasts several days, and most attendees, be they villagers or foreigners, camp out because there is nowhere else to stay).
The peaceful colonial town, once a mining colony, has cobblestone streets and a lovely Plaza de Armas with white structures and blue balconies, but not a whole lot else–that is until it is inundated by revelers donning wildly elaborate and frequently frightening masks and drinking as if Paucartambo were the last surviving town on the planet. The colorful processions and traditional dances are spectacular, and a general sense of abandonment of inhibitions (senses?) reigns. Mamacha Carmen, as she’s known locally, is the patron saint of the mestizo population”.
Anyway we finally found a taxi driver at 4.00am (the party in town was still going strong with dancing on the streets and dancing). He wanted 15 Soles each from 5 of us. I paid my last 10 Soles and the Peruvian guy paid another five for me. I stayed in the back booth area) in my sleeping bag. I was in a poor mood and just wanted to sleep. The Peruvian guy was an international student in New York and had perfect English. Anyway we arrived back at 6.30am.
Wednesday, July 16th, 2003 – Day 148
Anyway the Peruvian guy gave me two Soles for a taxi. Eveything was as closed and I was desperate to find a phone to cancel the VISA. Luckily I had my “plus” card which I had not used in South America yet. It worked on the first machine I tried. With that I bought a phone card and found a NET cafe to get visa Ireland. The trouble is the expense of phoning Ireland. A ten sole card gives you 4 minutes to a slow speaking Dublin employee. I decided to phone VISA worldwide in America which is 10 minutes for 10 Soles. They were very helpful and cancelled my card. I asked them to ring me back at my hostel ( I ran back there and explained my blight to the hostel owners). They rang back as promised and promised me a new card with 24 hours. I should have been enjoying in the festival in Paucartambo (drinking and having a good time – I was really looking forward to it) but instead I was miserable and had to spend another day in Cusco.
I gave back the sleeping bag (got back my deposit) and got breakfast. I felt better after that and I decided to forget about my cash loss (about 150 US). I had gotten out US notes instead of Soles 2 weeks ago. All ATM machines are dual here and the machine I used had a wonky screen where I could not see the bottom choice for Soles. Otherwise I would not have that amount of cash on me. I hope the guy goes straight to hell – the bastard (had to write that). Its therapy.
Anyway I went on the NET for three hours to write the blog since July 11th (to today the 16th). The hostel owners were really nice and VISA US phoned me twice to check details and be an intermediary with VISA Ireland. I have had no proper sleep in 48 hours and I was groggy. It turned out VISA Ireland does not offer emergency cards and could offer emergency cash or a new card by DHL. It may take between 3-5 working days. I decided to go La Paz tonight and get the card sent there. I walked to the bus station and got my ticket to la Paz replaced and changed for tonight (12 hour journey).
The Hostal Zamaloa – Garcilaso 210 – could not have been nicer. They offered me half price board, use of their phone, gave me free drinks and a free dinner. They were the best. I went to the market to buy some fruit and packed my bags. I was not going to do any tourist things today. I want to close the “Peru” chapter. The bus leaves at 10.00pm tonight. When I left the owner and his wife were incredible.. offering to give me money for a week, free board at the hostel (they wanted me to stay and recover), free phones. The lady of the house nearly brought me to tears with her generosity. After all the things I have seen (scenery, people, attractions) all over South American over the past five months, it was this lady who brought real emotion to me and I will her forget her and her family.
I was at the bus station by 9.15pm. I felt tired and at 10.00pm my bags were secured. You get a receipt which you give back at the end of the trip to get your bags back. I have one additional bag full of bloody Alpaca sweaters, scarfs, socks and tops. I bought too many but there are top quality. You would pay an arm and a leg in Europe for them.