Wednesday, July 2nd, 2003- Day 134
I was up at 9.00am and had a shower. I booked out and took a taxi to “Mobil Tours” – (supposed to be the very best in Peru). He was so enthusatic about showing a picture of his “Irish” girlfriend that we slambed into another taxi in front us. Damage was mimiuma nd no body was huty. My driver paid him 10 Soles and off we went as normal. I bought a ticket to Huaraz for 35 Soles. I should arrive there early tomorrow. I left my bag there in storage and walked back into town. Went onto he NET for a while (1 Sole an hour) and took a collective bus (1 Sole) to Huanchaco, 12km (7 miles) northwest of Trujillo. It is a tranquil and traditional fishing village now doubling as pretty low-key resort. It was the same bus as yesterday to Chan Chan and only cost 1 Sole (.25 EURO cent).
“The town’s fishing character is apparent in the long jetty that juts out over the water and the pointy handcrafted boats called caballitos del mar (or caballitos de totora), for which Huanchaco has become famous and which remain the photogenic vessel of choice for fishers. These small boats, made of bound totora reeds, have been used by fishermen for more than 1,000 years, since the reign of the Moche. The area around Huanchaco is one of the few places in Peru where this ancient sea vessel tradition has not disappeared from use. When not out on the water, they’re parked on the beach in groups like slender tepees.”
The weather was hot and sticky but I enjoyed been a beach bum for a few hours. Besides a stroll on the beach and visit to Huanchaco’s, there’s not too much to see or do. Its proximity to the sea are its main attractions. After getting back to town I had lunch and decided to go to the Temple of the Sun and the Moon.
I caught the “Campia de Moche” colectivo (1 Sole) on Surez (at Av. Los Incas), several blocks northeast of the Plaza de Armas. It took me about 40 minutes to find the street as there are no street names so I had to ask three people. I passed the city market to get there and passed some interesting stalls with people selling fowl, guinea pigs, ducks, pigeons and rabbits. Bought some nice fruit. The bus journey took 15 minutes (8 km) down back streets and farm land.
“This complex of Moche ruins is enigmatic from a distance. Two imposing rounded-off and weathered adobe pyramids, partially eroded, sit in a dusty open field at the foot of Cerro Blanco. Built by the Moche people around A.D. 500, they are about 7 centuries older than the ruined city of Chan Chan. The two masses constituted a religious center and an urban settlement.
The first pyramid, the Huaca del Sol (Temple of the Sun), is nearly 20m (70 ft.) high, though it was once bigger by perhaps two-thirds, and it was very likely the largest man-made structure in the Americas in its day. Heavy rains of the El Nino phenomenon, and the Spaniards’ diversion of the nearby Moche River, precipitated the erosion. It is said to have been built by 250,000 men and 140 million adobe bricks.
Across the open field, where burials sites have been found and living quarters were once erected, is the smaller but more interesting Huaca de la Luna (Temple of the Moon). It is better preserved than the Temple of the Sun and has been excavated; many of the most important finds took place only in the last decade, and excavations are ongoing.”
I met a German girl there and her Peruvian boyfriend. They offered me a lift to the outskirts of town in there taxi. I should have taken the bus and it was quite far away. It took me 20 minutes to walk into town centre. It was 5.30pm and I had dinner and went on the NET. There was an Israeli whom I had met in Banos in the NET cafe saying he had just gotten a fake 100 Soles (25 EURO) note. He was asking all and sundry what to do. We all get false notes and coins here (I have gotten a 5 Sole and a 1 Sole false coin) and he was angry because he had gotten it from a VISA ATM. He was a pain in the ass in Banos too asking 100 questions about where to do this and that. You have to get out there and find out for yourself. I went on the NET for a while and walked to the Mobil Tour bus station (about 15 minutes from the centre) to catch my 9.00pm bus. It is supposed to be the best. When I got to board, a lady dressed as an airline stewardness welcommed me. She even did a safety demonsration (just like on an airline) using hand signals.
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Click on the picture to see it in it?´s original size
Tujillo – Peru (02-07-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Tujillo – Peru (02-07-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Tujillo – Peru (02-07-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Huanchaco – Peru (02-07-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Huanchaco – Peru (02-07-2003)
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Click on the picture to see it in it´s original size
Temple of the Moon – Peru (02-07-2003)