Thursday the 15th of May 2003 – Day 86

Thursday the 15th of May 2003 – Day 86
Had the mother of all hangovers. Never mix Pisco Sours ( 2 ounces Pisco, 1 ounce Lime Juice , 1/4 ounce Simple Syrup, 1/2 Egg White, 1 dash Angostura Bitters). The brandy called pisco – the pith of the Pisco Sour – is originally from Peru – a powerful, tart libation. Got up at 11.00am.

Had enquired how to get to Pisac the day before. It is a town 32km (20 miles) NE of Cusco. Got a taxi to the bus station (which only serves 1 route) and bought a ticket for 2 S (bargain).

Pisac is a pretty, Andean village picturesquely situated at the eastern end of the valley. Though Pisac seems to be known principally for its Sunday artisans’ market, a crowded and touristy but thoroughly enjoyable affair, it should be more widely recognized and visited for its splendid Inca ruins, which rival Machu Picchu. Perched high on a cliff is the largest fortress complex built by the Incas. The commanding distant views over a luxuriously long valley of green patchwork fields, from atop a mountain spur reached by a strenuous hike, are worthy of cliché: They are, quite literally, breathtaking.

The Pisac ruins are some of the finest, and largest, in the entire valley. Despite the excellent condition of many of the structures, little is conclusively known about the site’s actual purpose. It appears to have been part city, part ceremonial center, and part military complex. It may have been a royal estate of the Inca emperor (Pachac?tec). It was certainly a religious temple, and though reinforced with the ramparts of a massive citadel, the Incas never retreated here to defend their empire against the Spaniards (and Pisac was not, like Machu Picchu, unknown to Spanish forces).

The best but most time-consuming way to see the ruins is to climb the hillside, following an extraordinary path that is itself a slice of local life. This is what I did. Trudging along steep mountain paths is still the way most Quechua descendants from remote villages get around these parts; many people you see at the Pisac market will have walked a couple of hours or more through the mountains to get there. To get to the ruins on foot (about 5km/3 miles, or 90 min.), you’ll need to be pretty fit and/or willing to take it very slowly. Begin the ascent at the back of Pisac’s main square, to the left of the church. The path bends to the right through agricultural terraces. There appear to be several competing paths; all of them lead up the mountain to the ruins.

“From a semicircular terrace and fortified section at the top, called the Quorihuayrachina, the views south and west, of the gorge and valley below and agricultural terraces creeping up the mountain slopes, are stunning. Deeper into the nucleus, the delicately cut stones are some of the best found at any Inca site. The most important component of the complex, on a plateau on the upper section of the ruins, is the Templo del Sol (Temple of the Sun), one of the Incas’ most impressive examples of masonry. The temple was an astronomical observatory. The Intihuatana, the so-called “hitching post of the sun,” resembles a sundial but in fact was an instrument that helped the Incas to determine the arrival of important growing seasons rather than to tell the time of day. Sadly, this section is now closed to the public, due to vandals who destroyed part of it a few years ago. Nearby (just paces to the west) is another temple, thought to be the Templo de la Luna (Temple of the Moon), and beyond that is a ritual bathing complex, fed by water canals. Continuing north from this section, you can either ascend a staircase path uphill, which forks, or pass along the eastern (right-hand) edge of the cliff. If you do the latter, you’ll arrive at a tunnel, which leads to a summit lookout at 3,400m (11,200 ft.). A series of paths leads from here to defensive ramparts (K’alla Q’asa), a ruins sector called Qanchisracay, and the area where taxis wait to take passengers back to Pisac.”

In the hillside across the Quitamayo gorge, at the backside (north end) of the ruins, are hundreds of dugout holes where huaqueros (grave robbers) have ransacked a cemetery that was among the largest known Inca burial sites.

The ruins are open daily from 7am to 5:30pm; admission is by Cusco’s boleto turistico. Note that to explore the ruins thoroughly by foot, including the climb from Pisac, you’ll need at least 4 hours. I also walked back to the town. Good Training for the Inca Trail. This was the best day I had for ages. Started bad but with the great scenery, the ruins, the westher, it was brilliant. I was alone 90% of the time on the trails. Mnay of them were tiny with sheer drops. It was great to be alone with no tourists or gringoes. When I got to a certain point, I remember thinking “this is why I came to South America”. Everything was OK with the world. I was happy as anyone walking down to catch a bus (around 5.00pm). When i got to the village, a festival was going on. I was the only gringo about, and out came the camera. The locals were nodding me on to follow the procession of working bulls to the church. The bulls and the men driving them were well decorated. Anyway at the church was a garden with wheat. The festival continued and all were offered natural wheat beer. i was offered and duely accepted. Quite nice but not hygenic.

Got the 6.00pm bus back and arrived at 6.40pm. Cost was 2 S. Bus was packed and drivers have a habit of leaving their lights out. Anyway took a 2 S taxi to the crowd I am doing the Inca Trail with to check what things I need and when i will be collected. Met Sarah, Peter and Alex for dinner. Had an early midnight sleep.