Monday the 14th of April 2003 – Day 55
Got up at 8.30am. The hostel is fine although close to a busy road intersection. It is spacious, lots of wood and management were nice. Bariloche is the “Killarney” of Argentina. It is a lake district tourist own. If I had the time, I would stay a couple of days, but the only things to see are the lakes. I am a bit sick of scenery at the moment so have decided to get a bus to Corboda (a city of 1 million) and skip Mendoza for now. Baricloche is a nice “Swiss type” town offering lots of chocolate shopping. There are streets called “Dr. John O Connor Street” and “Edward O Connor Street”. Lots of the buildings are wooden and the town is situated beside a lake.
Most of the people on the bus to the town were Israeli. It seems they are the biggest visitors to this area after Argentines and Chileans. I heard they are gathering here for passover. The Jewish communities in Argentina is the biggest in South America at 200,000. Israelis are the biggest backpacker group. It seems they all come here (not Europe or Asia) after there stint in the army. They are pretty clannish and really only associate with themselves. Prime Minister Ariel Sharon wants to encourage the immigration of some of the Jews of Argentina to Israel.
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Baricloche – the Lake District – Argentina
Taken on the 15th of April 2003
This is the main square in the town. Its the surrounding scenery, not the town that attrzcts visitors.San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina is situated on the foothills of the Andes, surrounded by lakes (Nahuel Huapi, Gutiérrez, Moreno and Mascardi) and mountains (Tronador, Catedral, López). It is famous for skiing but also great for walking and climbing. The “Cerro Catedral” is one of the most important ski centers in South America.
You can get to Chile a couple of ways, one way is across the Andes to Puerto Montt via 4 buses and 3 boats, another way is via the Samoré International Pass to Osorno.
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
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Baricloche – the Lake District – Argentina
Taken on the 15th of April 2003
The name Bariloche comes from the Mapuche word Vuriloche and it means “people from behind the mountain” (furi=behind, che=people). The Vuriloche pass was used by the Mapuches to cross the Andes and was kept secret from the Europeans for a long time.
Settled primarily by Austrians and Germans about 1895, San Carlos de Bariloche has the appearance of an alpine town. Population (1991) 77,600.
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Tuesday the 15th of April 2003 – Day 56
The bus journey started at 12.00 noon. The cost was 98 P with TUS. The journey time 22 hours. They showed three movies on the trip. The dreadful Desert Heat with Jean-Claude Van Damme. God, I hate that guy. How is he still on film. We saw the comedy Stealing Harvard with Tom Green which had 2 or 3 great funny moments. I like Tom in this movie and finally de Niro in
Showtime with Eddie Murphy (another actor I can not stand). What a terrible movie. Don´t bother seeing it or renting it.
Back to the bus. They gave us the usual sandwich lunch and cold dinner. A coke and a whiskey before bed. No blankets were available and the seats were not great so a uneasy sleep was had by all. Overall it was OK. I wasnt screaming to get off the bus and time passed quickly. The scenery isn’t worth mentioning. We passed some very poor and downrun towns as we moved north
Wednesday the 16th of April 2003 – Day 57
Arrived at 10.45am. Tired and vegeted at the bus station for an hour checking out buses to Salta. Argentina’s second city, Cordoba, long rivaled Buenos Aires for political, economic and cultural supremacy; indeed, while Buenos Aires languished through neglect in the 17th century, Cordoba was the country’s architectural treasure house. Today, a fine collection of colonial buildings is concentrated in its compact center. They include the old market, the Iglesia Catedral (featuring a Romanesque dome) and the Jesuit Iglesia de la Compa??a. The Museo Hist?ico Provincial Marqu? de Sobremonte is one of the most important historical museums in the country.
I booked into the Hotel Claridge (25 de Mayo 218) recommended by the Lonely Planet. That’s the problem with the Lonely Planet handbook is the best hotels they recommend are still dumps. The hotel is a dump but its private room in a VERY central area and it has a balcony. The bathroom is a disaster and the bed, sheets and blankets have seen much better days.
Spent much of the day walking around. Its nice to be back in a city and warmth. I could walk around in a T-shirt all evening. Had a shave and a haircut as well. Nice to be back to good weather. Temperaturee was 26 Oc during the day. Went on the City tour that leaves every 3 hours from the central plaza. Took two hours on a open top bus. The normal price was 12 P but only 8 P with my student card (fake). This city is supposed to the the “most” catholic in the nation. There are twenty five churches in the city centre alone. Many of these are contained with closed convents whicha re not open to the piblic. The city has also one of the biggest student populations. The tour guide said there were 130,000 third level students in the city.
Had a nice dinner in a restaurant. The city is cheap comapred to Buenis Aires (is this possible). For a beer and a chorizo (beef – finest cut) and chops, the cost was 13P. The city is famous for its pastry pies (empanadas) which I had a few during the day. The nicest were in La Canddela. They were only .80p each. You can get them in chicken, beef etc.
Went back to the hotel at midnight. The city is a bit like Dublin!!
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The Iglesia Catedral – Cordoba – Argentina
Taken on the 16th of April 2003
Cordoba – the rival to Buenis Aires. Córdoba is a city in central Argentina. It is in the center of Argentina’s most productive agricultural area, and is the capital of Córdoba Province. Córdoba is located on the “Suquía” river (yesterday “Rio Primero”), in the foothills of the Sierra Chica mountains. The city is a major industrial center, but retains many historic buildings from the Colonial era. In 2003 Córdoba had a population of about 1,350,000 people, making it Argentina’s second largest city (after Buenos Aires).
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
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Bird of prayer – Cordoba – Argentina
Taken on the 16th of April 2003
Córdoba was founded in 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, named after Córdoba, Spain. It was between the firsts Spanish Colonial capitals of the region that is now Argentina (The oldest was Santiago del Estero, founded in 1553). The University is the second oldest in South America, founded in 1613.
After the end of World War II Córdoba became a major centre for the Argentine aircraft industry, and the site of Argentina’s military aeroplane factory, the Fábrica Militar de Aviones.
Argentine Government offered positions to German technicians from the Focke Wulf company at its aerotechnical institute, the Instituto Aerotécnico in Córdoba. Many moved there in 1947. The Instituto Aerotécnico later became the Fábrica Militar de Aviones. It employed the Focke Wulf men until President Juan Perón fell from power in 1955.
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
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Bird of prayer – Cordoba – Argentina
Taken on the 16th of April 2003
I saw this gym on the way in on the bus. I noted the street number. I know its sad but I walked about 20 minutes today to find it and take a picture. You never know, I might have to come back here in a few years so that I can work my liver out and regain my drinking ability. Every town in Ireland should have a “Liver Gym”
Click on the picture to see it in its original size
Thursday the 17th of April 2003 – Day 58
Was tired so did not leave hotel until 11.00. Was raining all morning. Went down to the shopping area or pedestrian street called San martin. Bought a top, flip flops and some small things. Went to La Vieja Esquina recommended by Lonely Planet for a Locro (meat, corn, potatoes) – is a stew. Not very nice. Lunch was only 6 P. Raining all day, so little done today. Went to the bus station to buy the ticket to Salta. It departs at 20.15 and cost 50P. Rain just has not stopped all day.